I missed the burger when I first reviewed MIRACLE OF SCIENCE (321 Mass Ave, Cambridge, 617.868.2806), a wonderful minimalist bar, but noticed it on a list of favorites. In general, this organization does everything impeccably. The cheeseburger ($9.50), a flat half-pounder, cooked medium to order, is no exception. The beef-char ratio is perfect and there’s an unprecedented selection of cheeses: pepper jack, blue cheese, cheddar. This safari format compelled cheddar; it had actual and complementary flavor. There’s no French fries. Instead you get their fabulous home fries. Brewed iced tea ($1.75) was the real thing. The only off note, like the slight error in a Persian rug that avoids offending Allah, was a slice of a freight-car tomato in August.
Robert Nadeau can be reached atRobtNadeau@aol.com.
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BOKX 109, Sofia Italian Steakhouse, The Daily Grill, More 
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Food Features
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