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Editors' Pick
Best Ants On Trees

China Inn

A really good Chinese restaurant is hard to find. Like a lifemate, there are plenty you could settle for that would be perfectly agreeable, but what you really want is constant delight and surprise. The CHINA INN has many loyal regulars who would go to other Chinese restaurants only in turned-up trenchcoat and dark glasses, ashamed of cheating. For one thing, the decor is elegant and relaxing: there’s a tree-size ficus in the central atrium, and a bamboo mini-grove outside the windows that bracket the dining area. The cocktails are sizable and only $5.25. The food is wonderful, the steamed dumplings chubby, the egg drop soup intriguingly seasoned. An indisputable main dish recommendation is the ants on the tree ($7.95), with lots of ground pork in al dente vermicelli, smoky with dry spices. Delightfully surprising. | 285 Main Street, Pawtucket | 401.723.3960
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