Bacaro

Any culinary tradition worth its finger food should organize its small dishes like Spain has, like Canton did with dim sum and Venice with cicchetti. BACARO is a Venetian term for enoteca (wine bar), but its offerings don't stop there. As well as having more than 100 wines from 16 regions of Italy, and 10 varieties of grappa, the restaurant serves a complete menu of entrées. But where it sets itself deliciously apart is as a cicchetteria. The little dishes consist of 10 cold choices and 20 warm ($4-$10). Try the tiny, salty anchovy sandwiches, the mini-fish wrapped in sage leaves, breaded and fried, or the truffle-studded peccorino Romano with fig jam and honeyed hazel-nuts. Buon appetito. | 262 Water Street, Providence | 401.751.3700 | bacarorestaurant.net