If the Southern cookbooks can label recipes that way, why not Northern jams? WICKED GOOD’s chocolate-raspberry jam and the peach-strawberry-chocolate jam are both sinfully delicious. First you get a whiff of chocolate, then the fruit pops out, and then the chocolate lingers hauntingly at the back of your palate. It’s enough to make you dive for another spoonful, for toast at breakfast, on a shortbread for afternoon tea, or as a lusty cookie filling. Jens Retlev and Bart Ferris had already won great acclaim for their caramel mustard and ketchup with agave nectar when they dreamed up these jams. Retlev noticed that chocolate is the top ingredient in American desserts, with fruit a distant second. He reversed that in the jam recipe, putting approximately 10 percent dark chocolate into them and using less sugar so the fresh fruit taste would dominate. He hopes to produce an orange marmalade with chocolate in the very near future.
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