Black beans were also used for the baked beans that came with my grilled cowboy steak ($16.99). The table agreed that the beans were far too sweet, even allowing for molasses in the traditional New England version. My steak fries were fine, though, the steak itself superb. They were out of the 10-ouncne spice-rubbed sirloin listed on the menu, but the skirt steak substitution — the kind used in their tacos — was tender and delicious. Its slathering of coffee-boosted barbecue sauce was a hearty bonus.
The final choice on the table was a variation on their enchiladas verdes ($9.99). The usual choices are chicken or sautûed shrimp under a mild green sauce. But our waitress mentioned that the kitchen was pretty good about sauce substitutions, so Johnnie chose the poblano molû sauce, turning it into a kind of enchiladas nero. The three enchiladas were generously packed with shredded chicken, and the spicy sauce was deeply flavorful.
Seeing as a fun time was had by all, per instruction by the decor, we decided to end the meal in the same spirit. Instead of finishing with flan or chocolate cake, ice cream or tropical sorbet, we ordered the perennial kids' favorite, worms in dirt ($5.99). It was wonderful — gummy worms squirming (when you jiggled the bowl) amidst chocolate pudding and chocolate sprinkles, with chocolate cake below. We began to understand the grin on Mr. Skinny even better.
Bill Rodriguez can be reached atbill@billrod.com.
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