The Phoenix Network:
Eventide’s superior oysters, and imaginative cuisine
Slurping with delight
When you take the helm of a great institution, it can create a paralyzing fear of screwing things up.
| January 16, 2013
Eat more Maine scallops and pollock, and less imported, farmed salmon and shrimp
Fresh Maine sea scallops (dredged by day-boats or caught by divers) are everywhere this fleeting season, rebounding after a collapse that prompted a three-year-moratorium.
| December 31, 2012
Review: Jamestown Fish
Doing seafood proud
Seafood on the coast of New England should be no more difficult to find than pebbles on a beach.
| November 13, 2012
Review: Seagrass Bistro
How the other 1 percent feast. It's delicious!
The day is coming when the baby boomers will bankrupt this country, sparing only their own nest-eggs and supplemental health insurance.
| March 21, 2012
The taste of Sicily in Glendale
All jokes about Foster/Glocester weather reports aside, the village of Glendale is also very much off-the-beaten-track of the Greater Providence metro area.
| December 27, 2011
Review: 15 Point Road
Dishes both inherited and original
How is it that seafood at a restaurant located on the water's edge is more appetizing than at one located inland, even a few blocks up the street? I don't recall ever salivating because a steakhouse was next to a cow pasture.
| October 25, 2011
Lots of choices for lunch
On Wickenden Street with a friend, looking for a reasonably priced lunch, it occurred to me that a nice bowl of donburi would be cheap and filling. Sakura it was.
| September 06, 2011
Review: Pho Hanoi
Sauce your heart out
Vietnamese cuisine very friendly to saucy experimentation.
| September 07, 2011
Review: Chinese Iron Wok
Hard-to-find dishes (and the usual)
As recommendations go, hearing indirectly from four mainland Chinese kids new to this country that Chinese Iron Wok is their favorite place to eat got plenty of extra points for authority from me. I had to check it out.
| August 23, 2011
Review: Think Tank Bistrotheque
Southeast Asian treats among some head-scratchers
The owners have some very good ideas about food and drink — Southeast Asian treats are cool, and craft cocktails go better with them than wine does — but they have also produced some decisions that make the rest of us scratch our heads.
| August 17, 2011
Review: Red Lantern
Nostalgic fusion with so much for so many
Red Lantern's menu (and the design of the giant room) hedges its bets — there's a decent sushi bar, a drinking bar with sports on the TVs, a flurry of hot-pot tables, and some serious steaks.
| August 10, 2011
Review: Floating Rock
Spicy Asian that rises above the rest
If summer brings an urge for spicy Asian food, this is a splendid place to get some, despite a few chili-pepper compromises.
| July 27, 2011
Review: Tamarind House
A gentle step down from our fiercest traditional Thai restaurants
Tamarind House perhaps shows too restrained a hand with its cuisine's boldest flavors, but it's a useful step up from the bowdlerized meekness of the suburban Thai run-of-the-mill.
MC SLIM JB
| July 20, 2011
Are Logan Airport pollution and Massport indifference killing Boston's proud clam-digging tradition?
Denehy and other Boston clam farmers have come to face two seemingly impervious hurdles: a safety expansion at Logan Airport that will deplete two of their richest beaches, and a jet-fuel spill from last October that some allege wiped out half of Boston's soft-shell population.
| July 18, 2011
Review: Lorenz Island Kuisine
Fresh, traditional Jamaican fare in a friendly neighborhood spot
When I find a family-run place that seems to serve as an anchor for neighborhood life — serving three meals a day, doing a brisk takeout business, offering live music, DJs, and poetry readings a few nights a month — I think, "Damn, wish my neighborhood had a place like this."
MC SLIM JB
| July 06, 2011
Review: Aragosta Bar and Bistro
A robust Italian take on locavore cuisine
Sensing, the previous restaurant in this Battery Wharf hotel/condo development, was locavore and high-church French, but too subtle. Aragosta proposes to solve that problem with a more robust cuisine focused on the most local of all ingredients: seafood.
| June 29, 2011
Review: Stone Bridge
Mykonos classics and Italian favorites
At the Stone Bridge restaurant, there is competition for our attention.
| June 21, 2011
Review: Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House
A waterfront steakhouse worth the price
The good news — especially if someone else is paying — is that everything at Del Frisco's is pretty good, the view is incredible, and the service is relaxed.
| June 22, 2011
Review: Annabelle's Restaurant
American food searching for a niche
Hyde Park is the kind of neighborhood where the idea of a Dorchester businessman coming in to set up a restaurant is big stuff.
| June 15, 2011
Some days Maine is so nice it seems like a theme park version of a state. Last week offered such a day, especially if you drove to Camden to hike the big hill, see the famous view, and stop afterwards for dinner at the remarkable bistro Francine.
| June 10, 2011
What to drink when you're slurping
Oysters are the ocean's own raw bar. As easy little food it doesn't get a lot better. But what to drink?
| May 12, 2011
Figa opens at last, with influences delicate and broad
In the not-so-distant future, thanks to poor management and changing weather patterns, we are likely to face crippling shortages of fresh water.
| April 20, 2011
Review: The Fish Market
Already has its sea legs
The first encouraging sign was that the two men greeting us beaming broadly were the host and, we later learned, the executive chef. These guys were clearly happy. Business must be doing well.
| April 14, 2011
Review: Tina's Jamaican Caribbean Restaurant
Fine fare with a tropical accent
Fed up with winter? Couple of options. Hit the web and book an impulse flight to some palm-tree-bedecked island. Or drive to Tina's Jamaican Caribbean Restaurant, bask in the colorful ambience, and prepare yourself to be fed as well as any Rastaman who strolls in.
| March 15, 2011
What the Miyake family eats
Visiting a chef at home
Finding out your daughter's classmate's father is this city's most eye-opening chef makes you feel special.
| March 09, 2011
Midweek special gets top-notch gourmet food at neighborhood prices
For many years now the most memorable meals to be had in Portland have been at Hugo's.
| February 23, 2011
Review: Le Central
Cherchez la lunch
Their slogan is "Where the East Bay meets the Left Bank," and Le Central, in the middle of Bristol, usually does a fine job fulfilling the claim with more than good french fries. Gone are the days when the town had to settle for a Café La France on the spot.
| February 15, 2011
Review: Narragansett Grill
A visit to the latest resident
Over the years, restaurants have come and restaurants have gone at the remote 1200 Ocean Road in Narragansett: Wiley's, the Drunken Clam, the Ugly Old Toad, 1200 Ocean Grill, and so on.
| January 04, 2011
Review: Hemenway's Dockside Dining
Not just a clone of Providence
When a successful restaurant opens another location, the easiest thing is to clone the original, or at least the menu that was its claim to fame.
| December 15, 2010
Review: Wickford Diner
Good food, pure and simple
It doesn't look like a diner from its gray shingled exterior, and it looks like more than a diner from its extended menu, but the folks at the Wickford Diner don't care about appearances — they just want to feed you.
| November 11, 2010
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