My appetite for jonnycakes at the Commons Lunch increased with every mile during a recent Sunday morning drive to Little Compton. Arriving around 12:20 pm, however, we were told that breakfast was over and there would be no more jonnycakes. With a sigh, I mentioned how far we had driven and how much we’d looked forward to them, so our waitress said she’d ask the cook. A couple lunching next to us chimed in that they’d come from Rehoboth and would love an order as well. With such a clamor, how could owner George Crowther refuse?
Crowther’s are the East Bay-style thin jonnycakes. They’re impressively large and lacey, with a great corny taste (an order of five is $4.95). Crowther uses stone-ground cornmeal from white flint corn, the only way to go with true jonnycakes. Although we’re not taking sides in the thin vs. thick (West Bay) debate, these are definitely winners.
The Commons Lunch is part diner, part clam shack, part family restaurant with take-’em-home portions. It’s been here for more than 40 years, and after a major fire in March 2004, it re-opened in May, ready to take all comers. It sits across the road from the triangular Commons and the historic cemetery that surrounds the United Congregational Church.
The ride is half the fun of an excursion to Little Compton. Hop over the Jamestown and Newport bridges, taking in the water vistas and the vineyards on Route 138, or swing down Route 114 and across the Mount Hope Bridge, and you’ll be convinced that a scenic drive has it all over a speedy one. It’s as though the views of rolling pastures and stone walls, with occasional peaks at the Sakonnet River, lend a slower rhythm to the day. Furrowed brows relax and steady smiles play across cheeks.
So it was as we settled ourselves on the outside deck at the Commons Lunch. The day was sunny enough that most diners sought shady spots or a table with an umbrella. The resident Black Lab alternately begged or sprawled at people’s feet until he could get a tidbit or a head-pat.
While waiting for the jonnycakes, Bill and I also ordered cups of seafood chowder and quahog chowder ($3.95 and $2.75), respectively. Each steaming portion had a bit of butter floating on top, and the flavor was outstanding, mine with chewy bits of quahog and Bill’s with cod and clams.
Bill had been hankering for fried clams, so that was his main item for lunch. The plate arrived with a heap o’ clams, fries, and coleslaw ($15.95). The batter was a dry, crisp crumb; the clams were fresh and sweet. Crowther emphasized that his regulars also love the fish and chips, with a thick English beer batter, but he explained that customers can request a “dry batter,” which would be my preference.
I studied the menu intently: the popular seafood combo plates; sandwiches, soups — including Portuguese kale — and salads, with or without grilled chicken; Italian dishes, such as veal, eggplant, or spaghetti and meatballs. Crowther also runs a half-dozen or more low-priced daily specials that working people can pick up on the fly, such as meatloaf, homemade French meat pie, mac and cheese, or American chop suey.
